Block Fusing - the technique you never knew you needed
Block fusing is a technique used in style sampling and mass production where the entire pattern piece requires a fusible interfacing. Think neck facings, waistbands, cuffs and collars. There are some great perks to using this method for your interfaced pieces and is a much-loved technique by our team.
What is block fusing?
Block fusing is where a piece of fabric is cut and a
slightly smaller piece of fusible interfacing is cut to fit. The interfacing is
then fused to the wrong side of the fabric and you can cut your pattern
piece from the fused ‘block’.
This method is used in mass production of garments. It
enables the factory to fuse the interfacing and fabric together prior to
cutting to save production time for fusing each piece individually. Instead of
the factory having to individually fuse each piece they are able to fuse
several metres at once with a machine and then cut the pre-fused pieces in one
go.
Why do we love block fusing?
We love block fusing for a few reasons. The main reason is
by fusing the fabric and interfacing prior to cutting you are producing a much
more accurate cut of the piece. Another reason is for tricker fabrics such as
rayon, chiffon and georgette using a block fuse enables you to stabilise the
piece and again produces a much more accurate cut. A perk that I like is not
accidentally having glue on my iron or cover because the fusing piece is
slightly bigger than my fabric.
Are there any cons to block fusing?
There is one downside to block fusing – it can create a little
more wastage when making on off garments. However, that being said the small
wastage that comes from using a block fuse is usually a fair trade off for the
benefits of the technique – a beautifully fused and accurately cut piece.
Now the fun part – how to create your own block fuse!!
First cut a piece of fabric that is slightly larger than the
pattern piece you will be cutting. Make sure that when you cut this piece the
grainline is correct for your pattern placement. In the below example I am cutting
a waistband for a skirt. The waistband is cut across the width of the fabric so
this is the way I have cut my strip of fabric.
Now cut a piece of interfacing that is slightly smaller than your piece of fabric. If you are using a woven interfacing like I am make sure the grainline is matching the fabric. A woven interfacing will have a visible weave just like a piece of woven fabric. If you can’t see the yarns running left to right and up and down you are using non-woven and can cut in any direction. (I have cut my interfacing quite a bit smaller to make it easier to see)
Next, place your interfacing against the wrong side of your
fabric making sure the fusible side (shiny side) is against the wrong side of
the fabric
Now you fuse in place being mindful not to pull the fabric out
of shape as you fuse. A normal iron works for this however I do love my Elna
Press for this job!
Once you have fused the interfacing you can cut out your
pattern piece remembering to cut with the intended grainline of the fabric.
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